Saturday, July 27, 2013

Kale and Pepper Stuffed Pizza


This Sunday at the Fairmount Neighborhood Farmers Market you can look forward to the following offerings from Sweetwater Farm and Fair Valley Farm:

blueberries (for pancakes)
eggplants (make a roast eggplant salad)
red sweet peppers (make stuffed pizza, below)
green, yellow wax, and romano beans (make a bean salad, below)
tomatoes and fennel (delicious on pasta)
new potatoes (make a frittata)
squash blossoms, baby squash, and zucchini
celery and kohlrabi (great in kimchi)
cucumbers and carrots (make some mung bean pancakes)
broccoli and cauliflower (delicious roasted)
cilantro, Italian parsley, and 1 lb bags of basil (make pesto)
fresh spring garlic and Red Long of Tropea onions
kale, chard, collards, and a variety of lettuces
sunflowers and cardoon flowers
dried beans and grains from Camus Country Mill
jams, salsa, and pickles from Sweet Creek Foods
pastured chickens (try spatchocked)



Last Sunday afternoon we decided to go to the Sunday evening concert series in Washburne Park to hear the Eugene Highlanders Pipe Band, because how better to enjoy bagpipes than in an expansive open field. I had a bowl of pizza dough rising, which I repurposed for a loose rendition of Marcella Hazan's Palermo stuffed pizza or sfinciuni"A coarse version of sfinciuni is indistinguishable from pizza in appearance", writes Hazan scornfully, but a "finer and more fascinating rendition is known as sfinciuni di San Vito, after the nuns of the order who are credited with creating it. It has two thin, round layers of firm dough that enclose a stuffing --called the conza-- which is sealed all around." Long ago the name for this dish permuted in our household to "stuffuchini," which one must admit sounds both impressively Italian and evocative of the final stuffed product, without holding one to the high standards of the San Vito nuns.




I did not adhere to strict doctrine with my conza, but took inspiration from Hazan's broccoli and cheese sfinciuni, using Sweetwater's Tuscan kale sauteed with their beautiful lipstick peppers and Red Long of Tropea onions. For a side salad, I cooked green and yellow beans just until tender and tossed them with yellow tomatoes and fresh tarragon. The pizzas were still warm as we settled down to enjoy our multicultural picnic of stuffichini and bagpipes.




Kale and Pepper Stuffichini

Dough
I used 1 recipe of Jim Layhey's no knead pizza dough, which made enough for a couple of large adult stuffed pizzas and two smaller kids' pizza pockets, but here is Hazan's sfinciuni dough

1 teaspoon active dry yeast
3/4 cup warm water
2 cups flour (you may need more)
Pinch of sugar
1 teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons whole milk

1. Dissolve the yeast in a mixing bowl in 1/4 cup of the water for 10 minutes. Add 1 cup flour and mix thoroughly. Add another 1/4 cup water, sugar, salt, olive oil, and milk. Mix together. Add the remaining 1/4 cup water and the remaining 1 cup of flour. 

2. Knead by hand or in a mixer for 5-10 minutes. Add sprinkles of flour as needed. The dough will be soft but shouldn't be sticky.

3. Place in a greased bowl, cover with plastic wrap, and allow to rise for 3 hours, until doubled in volume.

Filling
1 bunch kale
1 sweet red pepper
1 sweet red onion
2 cloves garlic
2 Tbsp olive oil, plus 1 more for assembling the pizza
red pepper flakes and salt to taste
1/4 cup white vermouth
2 Tbsp fresh bread crumbs, lightly toasted
~2 ounces mozzarella cheese, thinly sliced
cornmeal

1. Cut the kale leaves from the stems and chop into thin strips. Seed and dice the pepper. Peel and dice the onion. Peel and mince the garlic cloves. 

2. Heat a skillet over medium high heat. Add the oil and saute the onions and red pepper until the start to caramelize. Add the garlic and cook a minute longer. Add the kale and red pepper flakes and salt and keep cooking until the kale has started to wilt. Add the vermouth and cook until it has evaporated. Remove from heat.

To assemble and bake the Stuffichini
1. Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. If using, place a pizza stone in the oven. Divide the dough into two balls (if using Lahey's pizza dough recipe, use about 2/3 for the stuffichini). On a floured surface, roll out one ball of dough into a 10 inch disc. Transfer to a cornmeal covered pizza peel or a cornmeal covered baking sheet.

2. Distribute 1 Tbsp of bread crumbs on the dough and drizzle on one tsp of olive oil. Spread the kale filling over the dough, followed by the mozzarella cheese, followed by another Tbsp of bread crumbs, and a drizzle of 2 more tsp olive oil. Roll out the second second ball of dough to a slightly larger circle. Place it over the stuffing and crimp the edges of the two circles of dough securely together, bringing the edge of the lower one up over that of the top one.

3. Brush the top of the dough with water, and then slide the stuffichini onto the preheated pizza stone, if using, or place the baking sheet in the oven. Bake for about 25 minutes, until the dough is golden and hard.  Let the pizza settle for a few minutes to allow the flavors to come together. Cut into pie-shaped wedges and serve.


Green Bean and Tomato Salad
Handful of green beans
Handful of yellow wax beans
2 medium yellow tomatoes or a dozen cherry tomatoes
1 bunch fresh tarragon
1/2 tsp dijon mustard
1 Tbsp sherry vinegar
2 Tbsp olive oil
salt and black pepper to taste.

Trim the beans and blanch in salted boiling water just until tender, about four minutes. Meanwhile, whisk together the vinaigrette of mustard, vinegar, olive oil, salt and pepper. Cut the beans lengthwise into thirds and toss in the vinaigrette. Cut the tomatoes into pieces and toss gently into the salad along with the fresh tarragon leaves.

Thursday, July 18, 2013

Fennel and Sardine Pasta



This Sunday at the Fairmount Neighborhood Farmers Market you can look forward to the following offerings from Sweetwater Farm and Fair Valley Farm:

green, yellow wax, and romano beans (try this bean salad with almonds and apricots)
blueberries
tomatoes and fennel (make the pasta dish below)
squash blossoms, baby squash, and zucchini
celery and kohlrabi (great in kimchi)
cucumbers and carrots (make some spring rolls)
broccoli and cauliflower (nice grilled in packets with beets
cilantro, Italian parsley, and 1 lb bags of basil (make pesto)
bell and cayenne peppers
fresh spring garlic and Red Long of Tropea onions (delicious grilled on pizza)
kale, chard, collards (make a chard and bacon tart)
variety of lettuces including iceberg lettuce
sunflowers and cardoon flowers
dried beans and grains from Camus Country Mill
jams, salsa, and pickles from Sweet Creek Foods
pastured chickens (try spatchocked)




Fennel is the backbone of one of my favorite quick pantry pasta dishes with bright and refreshing flavors that are perfect for a warm summer evening. This recipe illustrates some principles of a well-stocked pantry. First, no pantry is complete without a supply of tomatoes, and the absolute best are freshly preserved (here I used some of my stash of Sweetwater Farm romas frozen last summer). Next, always keep on hand a collection of canned fish,including sardines, salmon, tuna, anchovies, and smoked trout. Lemons and garlic are necessities. And finally, I like to keep a frozen supply of fresh breadcrumbs, which are easily made from the stale ends of Eugene City Bakery baguette run through the grater blade of your food processor. Then all you need to do is pick up a fennel bulb at the Fairmount Neighborhood Farmers Market, and you have a delicious midweek meal lined up to go. 




Linguine with Sardines, Fennel and Tomato
adapted closely from lastnightsdinner at food52


1 tin sardines packed in olive oil (about 4 ¼ oz.)
extra virgin olive oil
2-3 fat cloves of garlic, peeled, smashed, and roughly chopped
1 small or ½ large bulb fennel, fronds reserved
1/4 teaspoon red chile flakes, or more to taste
2 cups peeled tomatoes (~12 romas) with their juice, gently crushed 
2 ounces white (dry) vermouth
1 medium lemon, juice and zest
1/3 cup toasted bread crumbs
1 lb pounds dry linguine

1. Bring a very large pot of heavily salted water to a boil. Trim the fennel and slice the bulb very thinly. 

2. Open the sardine tin and drain the oil into a wide skillet (the amount of oil in the tin will vary by brand, so add additional extra virgin olive oil if necessary to make up 2 tablespoons). Warm the oil over medium-low heat and add the garlic, cooking until fragrant. 

3. Add the sliced fennel to the skillet with a sprinkle of salt, raise the heat to medium, and cook until the fennel is soft and beginning to caramelize. Add the chile flakes and let them sizzle for a minute, just until fragrant, then add the tomatoes with their juice. Cook until the liquid is reduced, then add the vermouth and let that reduce slightly. 

4. Add the sardines to the skillet with the tomato and fennel mixture, breaking up slightly but leaving some chunks. 

5. Add the linguine to the boiling salted water, cooking it until it is just short of al dente. 

6. As the pasta cooks, prepare the breadcrumb topping. Zest the lemon. Mince some of the fennel fronds. If using frozen fresh breadcrumbs, toast them lightly in a toasting oven or dry skillet. Combine a tablespoon or so of zest, along with a teaspoon of minced fennel fronds, with the toasted breadcrumbs, then set aside. 

7. Juice the lemon and add the juice to the pan. Taste and adjust salt if necessary. 

8. When the linguine is just short of al dente, use tong s to transfer to the sauce to finish cooking, adding a little bit of the starchy pasta water if necessary, and tossing gently to combine. (You'll want the sauce to be a little soupy, as the breadcrumbs will soak up the liquid and dry the pasta out a bit once you've added them.) 

9. Transfer the pasta and sauce to a large warmed serving bowl (or individual pasta bowls), add a drizzle of olive oil, sprinkle on the toasted breadcrumb-lemon zest mixture, and garnish with picked small fennel fronds and the remaining lemon zest.

Saturday, July 13, 2013

Fresh Blueberry Pancakes


This Sunday at the Fairmount Neighborhood Farmers Market you can look forward to the following offerings from Sweetwater Farm and Fair Valley Farm:

summer berries! blueberries, marionberries, and strawberries
tomatoes (make a BLT for lunch)
celery and kohlrabi (try grilled with smoked trout)
squash blossoms, baby squash, zucchini, and fennel (make pickles)
cauliflower and broccoli (also nice grilled in a salad
lavender, Italian parsley, and 1 lb bags of basil (make some parsley pesto)
sugar snap peas (add some crunch to your salad)
cucumbers and carrots (make some spring rolls)
spring onions, fresh spring garlic, and lemon drop hot peppers
spinach, kale, chard, collards, braising greens mix, lettuce, and salad mix
dried beans and grains from Camus Country Mill
jams, salsa, and pickles from Sweet Creek Foods
pastured chickens (try chicken and saffron rice)



There are so many delicious things you can make with blueberries, like bucklescobblers and cakes, but my all time favorite is blueberries pancakes. And rather than tucking the blueberries inside (reserve this for winter pancakes you make with your frozen berry stores), I like to pile the fresh berries on top of my pancakes and chase them around my plate as they roll away from my fork. Blueberry pancakes were my father's specialty, and for summer vacations, when we would pack our tiny Datsun B210 with two parents, two kids, two dogs, sheets, towels, beach towels, and inner tubes, the entirety of the kitchen supplies were devoted to my father's breakfast preparation necessities: coffee mill and espresso maker, and a pristine pancake griddle that could not be used for any other purpose. He always made Bisquick pancakes, but in my adult life I've diversified to many types. Right now my favorite are chia seed and buckwheat pancakes, at the top of the list below, but all of these would be delicious with some of Sweetwater Farm's fresh berries. 



Breakfast Pancakes and Waffles
Chia Seed and Buckwheat Pancakes
Cottage Cheese Pancakes
Swedish Oatmeal Pancakes
Teff Grain and Ricotta Pancakes
Apple Flapjacks
Fresh Fruit Crepes
Easter Egg Aebleskiver
Aebleskiver Filled with Chocolate and Hazelnut Stuffed Figs
Yeasted Buckwheat Waffles
Rye Waffles
Gluten-Free Waffles

Friday, July 5, 2013

Salad of Grilled Kohlrabi and Smoked Trout


Be sure to include a trip to the Fairmount Neighborhood Farmers Market in your holiday weekend plans. This Sunday you can look forward to the following offerings from Sweetwater Farm and Fair Valley Farm:

fennel and 
kohlrabi (try grilled with smoked trout)
squash blossoms, baby squash, zucchini, and a few tomatoes (nice shredded)
cauliflower, broccoli, and nappa cabbage (try some dumplings
fresh herbs and Italian parsley (make some parsley pesto)
fava beans and sugar snap peas (add some crunch to your salad)
cucumbers and carrots (make some pickles)
spring onions, fresh spring garlic, and lemon drop hot peppers
spinach, kale, chard, collards, braising greens mix, lettuce, and salad mix
dried beans and grains from Camus Country Mill
jams, salsa, and pickles from Sweet Creek Foods
pastured chickens (try chicken and saffron rice)


Last Sunday evening we had a Fairmount Farmers Market grilled feast: Fair Valley Farm chicken; kohlrabi slices with lemon; summer squash, garlic scape and spring onion skewers; and Israeli couscous with parsley pesto.



But the best part might have been a salad I whipped up Monday morning with the leftover kohlrabi and a tin of smoked trout (available at Trader Joe's). The smokey flavors of the kohlrabi and fish melded together, the kohlrabi gave the salad crunch, and the parsley and lemon made it all fresh and bright. Definitely a good reason for slapping on some kohlrabi rounds when you next fire up your grill. 


Salad of Grilled Kohlrabi and Smoked Trout
1 medium kohlrabi
~1 Tbsp olive oil
1 large lemon
1 tin smoked trout in oil (110 g)
1/2 cup flat parsley leaves, chopped
salt to taste

1. Peel the kohlrabi generously with a pairing knife to remove all of the woody exterior and slice into 1/4 inch thick rounds. Rub with a little olive oil and salt generously. Slice the lemon and stack the kohlrabi and lemon slices on top of each other.

2. Heat a grill or a grill pan. Grill the kohlrabi and lemon slices until the kohlrabi is lightly chard and partially cooked, but still retains some crunch, and the lemon slices are lightly chard and soft. (These lemony kohlrabi slices make a nice vegetable side, so make some extras if you like, but 1 kohlrabi is the right amount for 1 tin of smoked trout).

3. Slice the kohlrabi into 1/4 inch strips and place in a serving bowl. Squeeze the grilled lemon on top of the kohlrabi and toss with the parsley leaves. Add the smoked trout and oil from the tin, break the trout into bite sized pieces with a fork, and toss again. Taste and add more salt if desire. Enjoy.